Cancun

[lillibet]

Jason and I just spent a really lovely week in Cancun with Alice and Beckie. I'd been there several times in the late 80s (twice with B.) and then not again, so it was particularly interesting to see how much everything has changed.

Back then, most of the local workers lived in Puerto Juarez. Now Cancun City has over a million residents. Back then "shopping" meant going to the local market and haggling for handmade souvenirs. Now there are several malls of stores like Prada, Armani, Hugo Boss. Back then the highway south along the coast was one lane in each direction, with dirt turn-offs leading to gorgeous, deserted beaches. Now that's the Riviera Maya, with wall-to-wall resorts punctuated by theme parks built around the treacherous little inlets that had some of the most amazing snorkling in the world. At the Mayan ruins jutting out of dusty fields you were welcome to climb up and around and over, poking into every corner. Now there are paths and palm trees and polite little guide-ropes warning you away. Before there was a sense of discovery. Now there is investment and employment and at least a gloss of ecological responsibility. It's much safer now, for good and ill. There is a Starbucks in the ticketing plaza (there's a ticketing plaza) at Tulum--there are Starbucks everywhere--and they get more than a million visitors each year. The world is a smaller place.


Hotel: Marriott Casa Magna at Km 14.5 on Boulevard Kukulkan - very good, option to be not all-inclusive, but increasing discounts for eating dinner at their restaurants, fabulous breakfast buffet, enormous hot tub, cheap Kids Club has the kids watch movies all day, lovely spa (got a very good massage)

Restaurants:
- Mikado (MCM) - good teppanyaki, really nice sushi
- La Parilla (MZA. 51, Av Yaxchilán, SM. 22, Benito Juárez, 77500) - reasonable grilled meat, too much mariachi
- El Fish Fritanga (Blvd. Kukulkan Km 12.6) - take-out counter or lagoon-side palapas, huge shrimp cocktails, fabulous seafood risotto, playground
- Crab House - nice deck on the lagoon side across from MCM - seafood au gratin was fab
- La Capilla Argentina (MCM) - huge salad bar and steaks, slow service
- Mi Ranchito (Mercado 28) - food sadly downhill, but still great limonada
- Lima 12°05 (Blvd Kukulkan Km 12.7) - solid Peruvian, lovely sheltered lagoon-side deck

Excursions:
- Xcaret - underground river, beach, snorkling, performances, etc. - El Manglar has the best buffet, with half a dozen different ceviches - don't take a locker at the top, put everything in the bag to the bottom
- Chichen Itza - Go With Jerry private tour - gets everywhere before the crowds, move at your own pace, fabulous guide - Yucatecan buffet lunch at Hacienda Xayybe'h, swimming at Cenote Dzitnup - totally worth the greater expense
- Dolphin Discovery - sea lions, manatees, dolphins, all-inclusive (ferry, food, drink, lockers, towels) - very windy (and therefore cold) our day
- Mercado 28 - if you need souvenirs and want to haggle, this is still the place
- Tulum - much more regulated, lots more signage - beach was closed for waves and turtles
- Xel-Ha - good snorkling, ziplines, ropes course, all-inclusive

Comments

[deguspice.livejournal.com]

The change sounds rather significant. Do you think you'd want to go back again?

[lillibet.livejournal.com]

Well, maybe in another twenty years or so. Now it's a fine place, if what you're looking for is a beach resort. And the Mayan ruins are still very cool.

[muffyjo]

Sounds like a mixed bag, but you still enjoyed it, just differently than, perhaps, expected. And there was sunshine and warmth, which right now goes a LONG way.

Glad you went and had fun. And very glad you are back.